First Look
Nothing, absolutely nothing prepares you for that first look of Shinjuku at night.
My first trip to Japan came about when I was booked to deliver a couple days of training at the military base in Atsugi. I landed at Narita and went to Atsugi the next day. After my training, I decided to stay in Japan for a few days. Money was tight for me, so it had to be a relatively quick trip. I decided to spend one night in Tokyo and three nights in Osaka. For most of my life, I fantasized about the neon canyons of Tokyo. I had to see them myself. I also had to eat street food at Tsukiji Market (at that time the fish market was also at Tsukiji) and soak up the atmosphere.
I took a train from Atsugi to Shinjuku Station, connecting through Tokyo Station. Some 3.5 million people pass through Shinjuku Station daily. I did my homework and knew I had use the Central East Exit for a direct approach to my hotel. I found the correct exit and walked into the humid night air. The first few minutes I stood at the intersection slack-jawed and my wide eyed. It takes a few minutes for the sensory overload to pass. Those first moments seeing the walls of neon lights burned into my memory. It was, for lack of a better word; perfect.
Life is funny, just when you think you are so smart (like by finding the right exit), life gives you a good thump back into reality. For some reason, I looked at the street sign at the intersection. It was at that moment I realized – for the first time – that I couldn’t read the street signs. I swear it never occurred to me before that moment that this could be an issue. I walked the five minutes to the hotel in a dream like trance. I was and continue to be absolutely hooked. Many years have passed, but I still love being in Shinjuku at night. It’s modern, bright, seedy, and just a little edgy all at the same time. The lights are just part of the magic, the streets are also filled with sounds of advertisements, music, and even the calls of the African touts that try to lure you to some of the more adult entertainment options.
No matter how long I live, I will remember that first look.
